For
Sale
Another next project. This is a very late 67 from Canada. It will be going back to original red. Car has big tunnels, large rear springs, all black dash, top of doors, trunk and engine compartment. It will receive a 1500 transplant. So it will run as well as it looks.
This 67 is now gutted. Some unexpected problems. First the engine was very hard
to pull out. There was rust on input shaft. Then the axle shafts would not come
out. After soaking with oil and carb clean. One side was able to be leveraged
out. After a long time other side axle came apart. I then was able to pull trans
out with axle attached. Car is now on my Amphi roll over rack. Next step will be
power washing.
Big trouble. Shaft was rusted solid inside differential. Apparently seal was bad last time in water 20 years ago. Strange part is trans shifted well. Water trans was clean except for bottom.
Hull has been sand blasted and covered with epoxy.
This
is why it all takes time. After removing from car assemblies need to be broken
down. Then grease removed in solvent. Then sand blasted. Finally a coat of
paint. These brake parts are sent out for rebuilding.
Prop
shafts. Its all old stuff. You do not know what you have till you open up. This
old goo would last just a little while, then would go bad......very bad. Clean
blast and paint. Soon to be like new
The last of horrid blue paint being removed. Rebuilt brake parts get installed with new bearings and Hughs famous double lip front bearing seal. One rear axle had gotten a bit chewed up. After welding and polishing it too is like new.
Prop
shafts. Disassemble, degrease, and blast. After paint it is time for new parts
and grease. PVC pipe works great as seal and bearing installer. It takes almost
a full tube of grease to rebuild one side. Notice brass hammer for tapping parts
in place. I preload seals to assure proper lubrication. One messy job.
This
is how to pull your axle. One simple tool made from threaded rod and some old
Amphi parts. Weld nut on rod and use it to pull axle through bearings. Some just
hit the axle hard till it goes through the bearing. At over four hundred dollars
for axle and bearings for one side do you really want to smack it!
Prime
and block, prime and block, prime and block. This is where the hours really
build up. But that is what makes the difference.
The beginning of body parts.
I need to sand blast rust from back of grills on engine cover without damaging
sheet metal. Doors are filled with Amphicar under coating. Bottoms need to be
blasted to see what repairs will be needed.
After removing huge amounts of liquid steel and three other epoxies with
fiberglass cloth in between it was time to fix rust, dents and holes.
Pictures don't show dents when paint is on. Using paint and blocking high and lows in steel are shown. This area had a handle bolted to it and was bent and rusted. Holes are welded and ground down. Hood was then sand blasted on out side edges and on welded area. Hood after all paint removed. Next step is thin coat of filler and lots of blocking to make better than new.
Interior is nearly done. Seat backs had foam cut to fit like original. Car is now red with assembly underway. Front suspension and steering is installed. So is trans and rear suspension. And the clock ticks on!
Bilge blower and heater installed.
Hit the key and wait 30 seconds for bilge blower to kick out. Then Broooom the giant 1500 with Weber carb roars to life. A quick look at tach near steering wheel and your ready to roll. Close but not close enough. Swim it must!